A gastronomic guide to Lisbon

Markets, tascas and pastelarias — how to eat in six neighbourhoods and one day trip. Twelve chapters, in the order we would walk them:

• 1. How Lisbon eats — Hours, counters and the prato do dia: the three rules that decide whether you eat well or eat late.
• 2. The tasca, explained — What the room tells you before the food does: paper tablecloths, the sheet by the till, the couvert, and how to hand back what you do not want.
• 3. Alfama, Mouraria and Graça — Fish grilled on the pavement, snails in summer, and the parishes where lunch is still a neighbourhood matter.
• 4. Cais do Sodré, Bica and Baixa — Standing lunches, the prego, the market halls, and how to eat in twenty minutes without eating badly.
• 5. Campo de Ourique and Estrela — Where the city eats on a Tuesday: neighbourhood grills, old grocers and a market that never turned into a stage.
• 6. Marvila, Beato and the east — Warehouses, breweries and new kitchens: what happens to a food culture when the rent pushes it downriver.
• 7. Bacalhau in the capital — A fish that never swam in these waters and became the national dish: how to choose it, how Lisbon cooks it, and which version to order first.
• 8. Conservas, without the cliché — How to read a tin of Portuguese fish: species, season, packing oil, and why the good ones were never emergency food.
• 9. Pastelarias — The pastel de nata and the twenty things standing next to it: what to order at a counter at nine in the morning, at four, and at midnight.
• 10. Drinking by the glass — Vinho a copo, ginjinha served in a chocolate cup, and why a small beer is called an imperial: a map of the city's counters.
• 11. Markets, grocers and the flight home — Where to buy olive oil, cheese, tinned fish and wine, and an honest list of what travels and what does not.
• 12. Out of the city — Setúbal for fried cuttlefish, Sintra for convent pastry, the coast for grilled fish: three day trips, with trains, ferries and realistic timings.

Two files, one purchase. The PDF is laid out for a laptop, a tablet or paper: it keeps the maps, the calendars and the photographs exactly where we put them. The EPUB reflows, so it behaves on a phone or an e-reader and lets you change the type size. Kindle readers can send the EPUB across with Amazon's Send to Kindle. There is no app to install, no account to create and no connection needed once the files are on your device. Together they weigh PDF 21 MB and EPUB 5 MB.

Note: print from the PDF. The seasonal calendar is designed to work on a kitchen wall.

The download link is sent by email as soon as payment is confirmed, and it is also in your account, under Orders. You can download the files five times, for 30 days after purchase. If a link expires, or a file will not open, write to us and we will send it again.

The files have no DRM: read them on every device you own and keep a backup. What you may not do is resell them, republish the text or share the file publicly.

Because this is a digital product delivered immediately, you are asked at checkout to confirm that you want it straight away, and that this waives the fourteen-day right of withdrawal. Under article 17(1)(m) of Decree-Law 24/2014, the right of withdrawal does not apply to digital content supplied on a non-tangible medium once the download has started with your prior express consent.

Oh! My Cod has been walking people through Portuguese food since 2016, and Lisbon is the city we walk most often. This guide was written by the Oh! My Cod guides team and edited by Oh! My Cod, Lda. — the same people who lead the tours, which is why the chapters are the length of a walk and not the length of an essay. The project's work was recognised at the Prémio Nacional de Turismo 2024 (Best Gastronomic Project). Photography by Photography by Oh! My Cod.

Note: this is a city that renovates faster than it publishes. We update the file rather than reprint it; buy it once and you get the corrections.